Jazz Train - the inaugural journey
On Wednesday 12th December 2007, the ‘Jazz train’ made its inaugural journey from Hua Hin to Baan Krut. The idea came from Khun Ray, the owner of ‘Ray’s Place’ bar & restaurant and a selection of musicians who jam in the restaurant on Monday evenings, for patrons’ enjoyment.
At about 11am, passengers started to congregate at Hua Hin Railway Station. We signed in with our tickets and received our name badges and information sheet. Then we waited for the train’s arrival. Many passengers found that their friends were fellow passengers, and the buzz of greeting and chatter mixed with the sound of music, being played live on the platform. Refreshments were already being served and some passengers eagerly partook of the cool beer or soft drinks, while waiting in the heat.
At about midday the train arrived and the 68 and a half (my little boy) passengers and the musicians and staff got onto the train in a surprisingly orderly fashion. One 3rd class car was reserved for us, and it was definitely a bit of a squeeze to get us all in. I found myself near the centre of the car & sitting with complete strangers, with my little boy perched on my lap. I admit to dreading the journey, fearing my legs would go to sleep before an hour was up.
The musicians set up in the seats directly behind me and started playing. The instruments varied, but often included bass guitar, ukulele, accordion, saxophone, with the addition of others at different times. Classics such as Sentimental Journey, Indiana, When you’re Smiling, Fly Me to the Moon, Bye Bye Blackbird and Ain’t Misbehaving resounded throughout the car. Everybody started to get into the swing of things. By the end of the first hour, my new Finnish companions had made friends with my son & we were all sharing beer and whisky & snacks. There was a real party atmosphere on board & it was almost a shame when we arrived at Baan Krut station.
At the station, we were greeted by ladies who presented us with flower garlands and a charming display of traditional Thai dancing, performed by local schoolchildren, dressed in colourful Thai costumes. They then sang an English song of welcome & recited ‘Welcome to Thailand’ under the guidance of their teacher.
Transport to our resort turned out to be a convoy of salengs (motorbikes with sidecars) which we got into, 3 at a time. The child performers quickly took up any remaining spaces. A short journey took us to our resort - the Sala Thai Resort, right on the beach. Another performance by the children followed, with a drink of coconut juice each and we were given our keys and shown to our rooms - more in the style of Thai log cabins. Each was air conditioned and spotless with an ensuite bathroom (toilet, shower & basin). After a short time to relax & change, it was time for the evening meal on the beach.
The food was a fantastic variety of food in a Thai buffet - spaghetti, beef green curry, skewers of shrimp or squid, fried chicken, 2 types of fried rice, vegetables, bbq pork, fruit - the food was lovely and there was lots of it! More than enough for everyone. There was a very reasonably priced cocktail bar and beer, Spy, whiskies and soft drinks for sale, too. While we ate, we were regaled by a variety of jazz from different groups. Everything from compositions by His Majesty the King to covers of Norah Jones were played (and sung) for us. Some danced and there was a real party atmosphere. It was a delightful evening.
Next morning, breakfast (a buffet with pastries, fried eggs & toast and traditional Thai rice soups) was another musical affair, as we were serenaded by one of the musicians on acoustic guitar. The morning was free for us to do as we pleased and I spent it on the beach near the resort with my littl’un. It was a very clean, very quiet beach. Absolutely lovely - no touts selling their wares, no real noise, just sand, sea, birdsong and the occasional friendly (and nice looking) beach dog.
Lunch was quite early, and again, the variety couldn’t have been better - fried noodles with vegetables, seafood & vegetable stuffed omelettes, asparagus stir fried with pork, rice, fried chicken, fruit - good Thai fare which got polished off with gusto. We checked out and got on 2 air-conditioned buses to take us to Wat Thang Sai and then home to Hua Hin.
Wat Thang Sai was on a hill overlooking the Baan Krut beaches, and we’d seen it from ‘our’ beach. It looked like a fairytale castle, all gold turrets. Close up, it was the most spectacular building that I have seen in Thailand (bear in mind I haven’t been to places like Sukothai or Ayutthaya, so I can’t compare with them). It was truly gorgeous, both inside and out. There was a very nice seated Buddha, but for me, the temple itself was the highlight. Sadly (but obviously and rightly) photos were not allowed to be taken inside, but every single wall was covered in murals of Thai life on red & gold backgrounds, staircases led to spectacular terraces and turrets with the most amazing views. Statues were reclining against stained glass windows. I am so glad that this visit was on the itinerary; I would have hated to have missed such a breathtakingly beautiful place. The wat is fairly recent and was designed by the Royal Architect. It was his last commission before he died.
At 1:30pm, we boarded the buses for the two hour journey home.
If you get the chance to go on any further Jazz Train trips (the next is 26th December), grab the opportunity. It truly was a lovely, unique, interesting and musical trip. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.